The Hampstead conundrum was definitively solved 11 years ago when Beth Coventry transformed a run-down pub into the architectural Georgian gem. The menus have evolved over time and now under the aegis of head chef, New Zealander Greg Smith, they are innovative without being intimidating, responsively seasonal and in parts as cosy as a pair of favourite slippers. They cater for both the ground floor with its bar, bare tables, fireplace, board games, dog bowls and squashy sofas and the three differently decorated dining rooms on the first floor (all, by the way, available for private parties).